Trek Aiguilles Rouges
First Trek experience for me in full autonomy around the Aiguilles Rouges. We went there with the 4 of us (Valentin, Quentin, Edwige and me), a big first for all of us, we discover the joys of trekking in autonomy.
The route
The Massif des Aiguilles Rouges offers a panoramic view of Mont Blanc, the Aiguille du Midi, as well as the various glaciers of the Mont Blanc massif.
The course oscillates from 1400 m to 2550 m altitude, most of the bivouacs are around 2000 m. In all, 50 km around the massif, let's go!
This trek crosses three nature reserves:
- Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve
- Passy Nature Reserve
- Bérard Valley Nature Reserve
Be careful, the regulations of these nature reserves are strict, it is good to remember certain principles:
- Picking flowers is prohibited in order to preserve the flora
- Dogs prohibited in order to preserve wildlife
- Camping and fire prohibited / Bivouac authorized from 7 p.m. to 9 a.m.
- Collect your waste to preserve biodiversity.
(shelters do not take waste) - Drone overflight prohibited in the reserve
5 days / 4 nights on the Tour des Aiguilles Rouges.
The route starts from the Col des Montets car park to circle the massif in a clockwise direction, passing through Lac Blanc , Le Brévent , the Refuge de Moëde Anterne , the Col du Salenton and finally back to the car park.
Day 1 - Col Montet - Lac Blanc
+815 m / -30 m 5.8 km
Departure at 12 noon from the Col des Montet car park in front of the reserve reception chalet
First day and first surprise, the path we had to take by the GRP Tour Pays du Mont Blanc is closed for maintenance by the authorities of the reserve.
No information on the reserve site, so we branch off downhill towards the path passing by the GR du Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) which passes by the Aiguillette d'Argentière and joins the GRP at the Lacs de Chésérys.
First meal, Diots / Mashed potatoes the smell is making he few hikers who take the climb envious. We start our meals well in order to motivate ourselves for the first climb of the trek.
The climb continues to the Aiguillette d'Argentière where a good number of climbers attempt the ascent.
Several ladders and handrails are to be passed, if you are not afraid of heights, no major difficulties. Be careful, the path is quite aerial all the same.
When we arrive at Lacs du Chésérys , a sign tells us that the Lac Blanc refuge area forbids bivouacs. A quick phone call to the keeper of the refuge later, she advises us to spend the night down around the upper lake to enjoy the sunrise over the Mont Blanc massif and its glaciers.
First setting up of the bivouac, we see our first ibex, a large male on the ridge. No time to get the device out, it disappeared.
But other ibex descend on the slope rising on Lac Blanc, several mothers with their young, to welcome us for our first night on the massif.
Day 2 - Lac Blanc - Lac du Brévent
+839 m / -888 m 13.7 km
Big day in perspective with the climb of the Glière pass and the Brévent pass .
The sun pierces its first rays above the ridge; the refuge keeper hadn't lied to us the sunrise over the massif is magnificent. We take advantage of the view which is given to us for a few more minutes before setting off towards Lac Blanc and its refuge.
We taste the price of the mountain for our first water supply (5 € a bottle of water). A big coffee later, We set off for the first difficulty of the day: the Col de la Glière.
You can use the toilet water that is pumped to the lake, which you can sanitize if needed.
The climb of the Col de la Glière ends with a handrail, this first difficulty makes the cardio go up well. Breakfast break, a little lower down with a superb view of Lac Cornu .
Lac Cornu et chaîne des Fiz au fond
The descent to Planpraz takes a magnificent path on the mountainside, with several screes, take full eyes before the climb to Brévent.
Descente vers Planpraz
Last difficulty of the day, the climb to Brévent. The Bellachat refuge does not allow bivouacs next to the refuge, but you can bivouac in the reserve. After a phone call to the refuge, this one advises us on Lac du Brévent to bivouac.
2 possibilities are available to you, the ascent by the Col du Brévent on the GR or by the black ski trail.
We opted for the black trail, here we are on board for more than 2 km of climb.
After reaching the top, the descent to Lac du Brévent is not easy, the sun begins to set.
Valentin decides to find a place to bivouac; after a few minutes he is back with a great place above Lac du Brévent to the west and to the south with a view of Mont Blanc.
Coucher de soleil sur le Lac du Brévent
The night offers us a breathtaking spectacle. A superb starry black night overlooks Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi with Jupiter and Saturn as a bonus.
You really feel alone in the world in the middle of the mountains!
I take this opportunity to try some photos of the Milky Way on Mont Blanc. Judge yourself!
Voie Lactée au dessus du Mont Blanc 🌌
Day 3 - Lac du Brévent - Refuge de Moëde Anterne
+624 m / -934 m 12 km
Good day to recover from the day before.
Valentin and Quentin go to refuel at the Refuge du Bellachat before leaving and meet a marmot a few meters away on the descent. We looked everywhere the day before to see some, but no luck.
We go from a fairly hilly part after the summit of Brévent, towards a very green valley crossed by many waterfalls and streams. The junction is made with a winding path bordered by wild blueberries which leads to the valley.
During the descent, a promontory on the valley rises to allow us to appreciate the landscape and to see the refuge of Moëde Anterne, the point of arrival of the day. You will see it during the whole descent.
Take advantage of the abundance of water for refueling.
We now arrive at Pont d'Arlevé, the lowest point since the start at 1600 m, to continue on the last climb to the Moëde Anterne refuge.
The view on arrival looks like Scotland, we enjoy our first beer of the trek (well deserved) on the terrace of the refuge before setting up the bivouac.
Drinking water is available at the refuge: refuel 😉.
PS: the owner of the refuge is frankly unfriendly, try to avoid him, we came across a nice employee though.
Comme un air d'Ecosse
Day 4 Refuge de Moëde Anterne - Refuge de Pierre à Berard
+732 m / -819 m 10.8km
New day, new stage with the rise of the Col du Salenton and a little more than 600 m of vertical drop and the descent to the Pierre à Berard refuge.
We cross the valley, superb, lots of greenery, we meet one of the owners of the Villy chalet with a piercing view. He shows us several deer on the slope that he detects with the naked eye.
We forded the river right before the ascent of the Col du Salenton, once again a little more than 2 km of ascent which begins slowly before arriving on a very steep slope to the summit.
Lunch break at the summit (2526m), we regain our strength for the descent to the refuge. Mont Buet (3096 m) is nearby, with a vertical drop of 500m, if you want to try the ascent of "Mont Blanc des Dames".
The rain joins the party, it will not stop until our arrival at the refuge, so we begin the descent on the slippery rocks. Not the best playground in the rain, the descent is easy (being careful to avoid any injury).
No rain since the start of the trek, it allows us to test our equipment and taste the rain on the high mountain trails.
On arrival at the refuge, the keeper informs us that the bivouac sites of the refuge must be reserved. Don't panic, we are not in high season,she finds us a place to pitch our tents.
Day 5 Refuge de Pierre à Berard - Col Montet
+91 m / -545 m 7.5 km
It is soon the end of this trek, a last farewell through the Berard valley and this beautiful massif of the Aiguilles Rouges.
A short stop at the Cascade du Bérard, the descent is quite rapid towards the Col du Montet where we can celebrate the end of this trek. 👍
Final word
Superb first experience for a mountain trek in autonomy, really to do again. A great team, we take the same ones and we start again now! :)
Magnificent and diverse landscapes around the Aiguilles Rouges.